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Home > News > Industry NewsAnti-Pilling Solutions for Textile Printing and Dyeing Processes
Pilling refers to the phenomenon where mechanical friction causes fibers to emerge from the fabric surface, forming fuzz. With continued friction, these fibers tangle and form pills. Pilling is a dynamic property, and the rate of pilling often varies with wear time. So, what are the anti-pilling solutions for textiles during printing and dyeing? Below is a detailed introduction.
To standardize the evaluation of textile anti-pilling performance, relevant domestic and international organizations have established standard testing methods. Different methods have varying test conditions, and results from different methods are not comparable. Currently, products sold domestically can be tested according to corresponding product standards:
For dresses, single-layer jackets, knitted T-shirts, and knitted student uniforms: GB/T 4802.1
For bedding: GB/T 4802.2
For knitted wool sweaters: GB/T 4802.3
For export products, testing institutions determine the method based on the destination country's standards:
For export to the U.S.: ASTM D3512
For export to the U.K.: BS 5811, etc.
Therefore, if there are special requirements, enterprises should clearly indicate the testing method when submitting samples to avoid misunderstandings.
Many factors influence the degree of pilling, including raw materials, spinning processes, dyeing and finishing, and wearing conditions.
1) Fiber Length
Fabrics made from long fibers are generally less prone to pilling than those made from short fibers, as there are fewer fiber ends per unit length exposed on the yarn and fabric surface. Additionally, long fibers have higher cohesion, making it harder for fibers to slip out to the yarn and fabric surface.
2) Fiber Fineness
Coarse fibers are less prone to pilling than fine fibers. Yarns spun from coarse fibers have fewer fibers per unit area, resulting in fewer exposed ends. Coarser fibers are stiffer, and fibers standing upright on the fabric surface are less likely to tangle into pills.
3) Fiber Crimp
Fibers with more crimp have higher cohesion and friction, making it harder for fibers to migrate to the fabric surface, thus reducing pilling.
4) Fiber Cross-Section
Fibers with a nearly circular cross-section have lower cohesion and are more prone to pilling compared to fibers with triangular, polygonal, or other shaped cross-sections.
5) Fiber Strength and Elasticity
Fibers with high strength and good elasticity are more prone to pilling than those with low strength and poor elasticity because they are less likely to break off under friction. Once fuzz forms, they easily tangle into pills. Polyester staple fiber is particularly prone to severe pilling, and polyester fibers easily generate static electricity under friction, attracting external particles and worsening pilling.
1) Spinning Process
During spinning, multiple processes are involved, each more or less causing friction on the yarn and generating hairiness.
2) Yarn Blending Ratio
In polyester-blended fabrics, the higher the polyester content, the more severe the pilling.
3) Yarn Twist
Yarns with higher twist have tighter fiber cohesion, fewer protruding fibers, and lower fiber mobility, resulting in less pilling.
4) Winding
Winding is a major process for generating hairiness. Fine yarn tubes with hairiness undergo high-speed unwinding during winding, causing self-friction and increasing hairiness.
5) Fabric Type
Knitted fabrics are more prone to pilling than woven fabrics due to their larger exposed yarn surface area. Fabrics with tight structures are less prone to pilling than those with loose structures. Fine-gauge knitted fabrics are less prone to pilling than coarse-gauge ones. Weft-knitted plain fabrics show less pilling than rib-knitted fabrics. Fabrics with smooth, flat surfaces are less prone to pilling than those with uneven surfaces. Plain weave fabrics are less prone to pilling than twill weaves.
Dyeing and finishing processes, including equipment type, processing methods, and added auxiliaries, affect pilling. Factors such as singeing conditions, mercerization, continuous bleaching (which introduces wet friction and mechanical tension), the use of anti-pilling agents, dyeing bath ratio, and time all influence pilling severity.
1) Wearing Combinations
Inner and outer layers of garments prone to pilling should be paired with smooth fabrics to reduce friction.
2) Washing and Drying Methods
Follow the washing label instructions. Avoid simply throwing all garments into a washing machine, as strong mechanical action increases friction and worsens pilling.
Improving textile anti-pilling performance in production is a systematic project, requiring comprehensive measures from fiber production, spinning, and weaving processes.
When blending cotton, comprehensively consider fiber fineness, length, crimp, and other factors, and properly control the blending ratio.
1) Cotton Yarn – Sirospun
Sirospun is mainly an improvement on the ring spinning frame. The drafting system differs from traditional frames. An additional device is added after the output roller to collect fibers, allowing twice-drafted roving sliver to converge before entering the twisting zone. Using airflow, the sliver is drawn from the roller drafting system's clamping point and collected on a perforated surface. Suction compresses the sliver, reducing the width at the nip and significantly lowering the spinning triangle height. This increases yarn twisting effectiveness, making fiber cohesion more orderly and tighter, greatly reducing yarn hairiness.
2) Pure Wool or Wool-Blended Yarn – Solospun
Also known as cable spinning, this technology was introduced by the International Wool Secretariat. A grooved splitting roller is installed under the front roller. The grooves split the flat strands output from the front nip into many narrow strips. Due to twist transmission, these narrow fiber strips rotate around their own axes, acquiring slight twist. As the yarn moves downward with winding motion, the strips converge and are twisted together, forming a cable-like yarn composed of multiple weakly twisted strands. Compared to Siro yarn (twisted from two weakly twisted strands), Solospun yarn has higher strength, better abrasion resistance, and less hairiness.
3) Other Spinning Measures
Use high-hardness rings during spinning. Low-hardness rings are easily grooved by travelers, causing tension instability and increasing hairiness. Slightly increase yarn twist (e.g., 8%–15%), though higher twist may stiffen hand feel and require untwisting devices during knitting. For winding, use German C338 or Italian Orion automatic winders, which feature precision winding systems to prevent yarn rewinding and reduce inappropriate friction during unwinding that generates hairiness.
1) Using Auxiliaries During Finishing
Add anti-pilling agents during bleaching and softeners during dyeing to reduce wet friction between yarns or between fabric and dyeing machine, while controlling fiber ends from escaping the yarn, thus reducing pilling. Alternatively, use resin-based agents or chemical adhesives through padding to make hairiness adhere tightly to the fabric surface, reducing pilling.
2) Cellulosic Fiber Fabrics (Cotton, Viscose, Linen, Tencel, etc.) – Bio-Polishing
This technique uses cellulase enzymes to weaken fiber ends, then mechanical action removes protruding microfibers from the yarn surface. Removing these microfibers prevents pilling and enhances luster.
3) Polyester Fabrics
During singeing, use one pass forward and one pass backward with a low flame to avoid over-singeing. During scouring, thoroughly remove oil; otherwise, oil residue easily attracts small particles and lint during wear. Add caustic soda during scouring. Since polyester fabrics are not resistant to strong alkalis, this creates an alkali-reduction effect, causing a "peeling" effect on the polyester fabric surface and improving anti-pilling performance.
In summary, the main cause of hairiness is friction. To reduce friction, improvements can be made at various stages. For example, before combing, thoroughly card cotton or sliver to remove impurities and neps. During winding, pay attention to drum maintenance and upkeep.
