Testing Classroom | Detailed Explanation of Textile Pilling Testing and Evaluation

Testing Classroom | Detailed Explanation of Textile Pilling Testing and Evaluation

CTTC Testing Classroom

Pilling is one of the common quality issues in textiles, directly affecting product appearance and consumer experience. Whether for apparel, home textiles, or technical textiles, pilling resistance is an important indicator of product quality. However, for businesses facing a wide range of domestic and international testing standards, how do you choose the most appropriate test method? And what key parameters should be focused on for different fabrics? Here is a detailed overview to help you.

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Causes of Pilling

Pilling is a physical phenomenon where fibers on the fabric surface, under friction and other external forces, form fuzz or tangle into pills. The main influencing factors include:

• Fiber properties: Short fibers, high elongation, and elastic fibers (e.g., wool, polyester, nylon) are more prone to pilling.

• Yarn structure: Loosely twisted yarns with a less compact structure, such as low-twist yarns, have poor pilling resistance.

• Fabric construction: Depending on the fabric structure and process, knitted fabrics (e.g., sweaters) have a looser structure and are more prone to pilling than woven fabrics. Fabrics treated with anti-pilling finishes are less likely to pill than untreated ones.

• Usage scenarios: Areas subject to frequent friction (cuffs, elbows, inner thighs) are more prone to pilling.

Pilling Test Methods

1. Circular Locus Method (GB/T 4802.1)

• Principle: The specimen is rubbed against a nylon brush and standard abrasive, or only against a standard abrasive, to generate fuzzing and pilling, which are then visually assessed in a specified light box.

• Applicable fabrics: Routine testing of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, home textiles, and apparel products. Short test duration (50-600 rubs).

Test parameters and applicable fabric types

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YG502 Fabric Pilling Tester

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2. Martindale Method (GB/T 4802.2)

• Principle: Using a Martindale abrasion tester, the specimen is rubbed against the same fabric or a wool fabric abrasive in a Lissajous figure trajectory under specified pressure, then visually assessed in a specified light box.

• Applicable fabrics: Woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, home textiles, apparel, and decorative textiles.

Classification of Pilling Tests

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Abrasion & Pilling Series | YG401E-4 Martindale Abrasion Tester

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3. Pilling Box Method (GB/T 4802.3)

• Principle: Specimens mounted on polyurethane tubes are placed in a rotating box lined with cork, tumbled for a specified number of rotations to generate fuzzing and pilling, then visually assessed in a specified light box.

• Applicable fabrics: Knitted fabrics (sweaters, knitwear, etc.).

Abrasion & Pilling Series | YG511-2 Rotating Pilling Box Tester

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Pilling Rating Description

Parameter and Condition Requirements for Textile Pilling Testing

Pilling testing is a key step in textile quality control. Relevant product standards specify test methods and parameter conditions; if parameters are not specified, the requirements of the test method standard apply. The table below shows pilling test condition requirements for several typical products.

Product Type and Standard Number
Test Standard
Parameter and Condition Requirements
Exemptions

Typical Woven Garments
FZ/T 81007-2022 – Single and Layered Jackets
FZ/T 81004-2022 – Dresses and Skirt Suits
GB/T 2664-2017 – Men’s Suits and Overcoats
GB/T 2665-2017 – Women’s Suits and Overcoats
GB/T 21295-2024 – Technical Requirements for Physical and Chemical Performance of Garments

Test Standard: GB/T 4802.1-2008
Parameter Requirements:

• Worsted wool / worsted wool-like: E

• Carded wool / carded wool-like / loose structure: F

• Others: D

Test Standard: GB/T 4802.1-2008
Parameter Requirements:

• Worsted wool / worsted wool-like: E

• Carded wool / carded wool-like / loose structure: F

• Others: D

Test Standard: GB/T 4802.1-2008
Parameter Requirements:

• Worsted: E (pilling rating 400 for suede)

• Carded: F

Test Standard: GB/T 4802.1-2008
Parameter Requirements:

• Worsted wool / worsted wool-like: E

• Carded wool / carded wool-like / loose structure: F

• Others: D

Exemptions: Raised, flocked, sanded, burnt-out, and cut-out style fabrics.

Typical Knitted Garments
(Only outer side assessed)

Test Standard: FZ/T 73020-2019 – Knitted Casual Wear / GB/T 4802.1-2008
Parameter Requirements: E
Exemptions: Sanded, raised, flocked products and lace fabrics; openwork, long float yarns, brushed, and other special processes.

Test Standard: FZ/T 73005-2021 – Low-wool and Wool-like Knitwear / FZ/T 73018-2021 – Wool Knitwear / GB/T 4802.3
Parameter Requirements:

• Worsted: 14,400 rpm

• Semi-worsted, carded: 7,200 rpm

Online Products: Socks, small accessories, etc.
Exemptions: For assembled garments, only low-wool blended and wool-like fabrics are assessed; openwork, long float yarns, brushed, and other special processes; socks and small accessories.

Special Scenarios
For assembled garments, only the wool knit part is assessed.

Test Standard: GB/T 31888-2015 – Primary and Secondary School Uniforms

• Woven/knitted: GB/T 4802.1-2008

• Wool knit: GB/T 4802.3
  Parameter Requirements:

• Wool knit: E

• Worsted: 14,400 rpm, carded: 7,200 rpm
  Exemptions: Only the fabric of the school uniform is assessed.

Test Standard: GB/T 26385-2011 – Knitted Assembled Garments / GB/T 22796-2021 – Bedding

• Woven: GB/T 4802.1-2008

• Knitted: GB/T 4802.3

Test Standard: Knitted: GB/T 4802.1-2008; Woven: GB/T 4802.2
Parameter Requirements:

• Woven synthetic fiber: D

• Flat knitting: As required – E

• 2,000 cycles, (415 ± 2) g
  Exemptions: Sanded, raised products; brushed fabrics.